Queens & Colonies

Queens & Colonies: Requeening, Queen Cells & Swarms

Most "sick hive" problems are really queen problems. Learn to read your colony's queen signals and you'll solve most of what goes wrong.

Emma Marlowe, founder and head writer of Honeybees 101 Emma MarloweFounder & Head Beekeeper Updated Sep 15, 2026 9 min read
Honey bees clustered densely on a hive frame, showing colony behavior

Reading Queen Cells

Queen cells are how a colony makes a new queen. Where you find them tells you why:

  • Along frame bottoms and edges (many cells): the colony is preparing to swarm.
  • 1–3 cells mid-frame on the face: supersedure — they're replacing a failing queen.
  • Numerous cells after queen loss: emergency cells built from young larvae.

Signs of a Failing Queen

A queen's output declines with age, injury, or poor mating. Watch for:

  • Patchy "shotgun" brood pattern instead of solid cappings.
  • Drone-laying (queen laying unfertilized eggs in worker cells — domed, raised cappings).
  • Few eggs or larvae despite a full hive of bees.
  • Supersedure cells appearing during a strong season.

Don't panic-requeen. If you see eggs, the queen is likely still working — give her a week and check again. Requeen only when the evidence is clear.

How to Requeen a Colony

  1. Find and remove the old queen (or confirm she's gone). If you can't find her, requeening is riskier.
  2. Introduce the new queen in her cage between frames, candy plug exposed. Workers release her over 2–5 days while getting used to her pheromone.
  3. Wait a week and check for eggs, not the queen herself.
  4. Feed lightly during the transition — a settled colony accepts a queen more readily.

Direct release (letting the queen walk in) can work with a queenless colony, but cages are safer for beginners. Queen-rearing and introduction equipment is covered in Queen-Rearing Equipment.

Managing Swarms

Swarming is normal, healthy reproduction — and a headache for beekeepers, because it halves the colony right before the honey flow. Prevention beats cure:

  • Give room early — supers before they're needed, not after.
  • Split strong colonies in spring to relieve crowding.
  • Remove swarm cells only with a plan — done carelessly, you leave the colony queenless.
  • Set swarm traps nearby to catch your own swarms and your neighbors' too.

If a swarm does leave, don't despair: a captured swarm is a free colony. Local clubs often run swarm-removal lists — join one and you may get a call that starts your second hive. See Your First Beehive.

Queen & Colony FAQs

How long does a queen live?

Two to five years, but her laying peaks in years one and two. Many beekeepers requeen every year or two forvigor and gentleness.

My queen is gone. What now?

If there are eggs or very young larvae, the colony can raise its own queen — leave them alone for 3–4 weeks and check for eggs. If there's no brood young enough, buy a mated queen or combine with another colony.

Should I mark my queen?

A colored dot makes her easy to find and tells you her age (the international color code changes yearly). It's a gentle, quick procedure once you've practiced on a drone.